“When a food comes back, we should understand why it went away,” writes American journalist Gabe Bullard. His article “Bushy Tails and Old Cookbooks” traces the rise and fall of squirrel in the American culinary canon—and now its unexpected return. He asked me about fashions in food and forgetting, and we chatted about the relationship between what we eat and where we are. Read his article for The Bitter Southerner here.